Since Monday, I’ve been involved in the Sea of Cortez in one way or another.
First, I started SCUBA lessons – and I’m now a PADI Certified Open Water Diver – Yay, me. There were a few bumps along the way, but we hammered them out until I was constantly doing the right thing.
One day of pool work, then two days of two dives each in the Sea of Cortez. I had a sea lion swim up to me and veer away at the last second, leaving a space of about 2-3 inches between us. Completely amazing. Then I got to swim in a school of small fish constantly being circled by Bonitas (a type of tuna) and diving birds.
Then, today, I took the ferry from La Paz to Topolobampo, on the Mexican mainland. The following is what I wrote while I was on the ferry (I also wrote about 2,000 words in Endure, but you don’t get to see that until I’m finished.
The Ferry from La Paz to Topolobampo
In October, there are two ferries operating from La Paz. One goes to Mazatlan and the other to Topolobampo, both on the Mexican mainland on the Sea of Cortez.
My original plan was to take the ferry to Mazatlan, which would have put me a couple of hundred kilometers south, but would take an overnight voyage and cost double what the ferry to Topolobampo would cost. Furthermore, if I wanted to rent a cabin (aka a room on a ship), I either would have had to share it with three other strangers (not something I’m real keen to do) or book all four bunks (that money thing again).
Instead, I elected to take the ferry to Topolobampo. There are three ways of booking – what I call cattle car class, the VIP Salon, or a cabin. Cattle car and cabin were out, so VIP Salon it was. Over a month ago, I booked my passage and selected my seat. But, as you all know, the best laid plans….
Anyhow, fast forward a couple of weeks when I realized there was no way I was going to be able to catch the ferry, I contacted the company. They arranged for an “open ticket.” This meant I didn’t have a reserved slot, rather all I needed to do was show up, show the letter (with the QR code) and get my new seat assignment. Of course, this came with a price – about $25 (580 pesos) for the change, to be paid when I showed up.
This morning, I left the Peace Center Hostel, with wishes for safe travels from the Hosts, Ana and Pavel, along with two other guests – Shaheen from Morocco and a French bicyclists whose name I never got (we could barely communicate – I know about 10 French words and his English was on a par less than my Spanish.
I arrived at the ferry port a bit before the recommended check in and was one of the first in line for the Aduana (Customs). A check of my passport, passport card, Temporary Import Permit (for the Himi) and a cursory inspection of a couple of my bags, then I was off to see about my ticket.
First, I had to get the Himi measured and weighed (I initially skipped that step, so was sent back to complete it), then off to the ticket office for the change. Pleasant surprise, apparently I got some sort of discount, so instead of having to pay $580 (the $ is for pesos, also), I received a $20 credit (about a US dollar). Meh. I’ll write it off.
The ticketing required a photo ID to prove that I was the person actually on the ticket.
Then I had to get me and the Himi in line to board. Ticket checked, I got sent up to the third level, where a crew member helped me (? Did it?) strap down the bike. At this point, I’m soaked with sweat, so I divested myself of the helmet, riding jacket, riding pants, boots, and gloves. Underneath I had a pair of cargo shorts (for the many pockets) and a t-shirt. Both soaked.
I then made my way up to reception and showed them my ticket, where they gave me a key card for the VIP Salon, which was another flight up.
The reception is in the main salon, where there are numerous small tables set up for dining, along with a cafeteria (the usual grab a tray and ask the servers to load it up). A small bar with what looks like a variety of adult beverages is at the end of the food line (fill up on free food then buy some drinks!). There’s also a small stage, and as I’m typing this, I’m listing to a duet play guitars and sing. They’re called Vela Roja. Check them out.
The VIP Salon is simply a forward-facing room with a number of comfortable seats (think Premium Airline seats) that recline. They also distributed blankets and what looks like a toiletries kit (but I haven’t opened that yet). There are some galletas (cookies) and a combo coffee/hot chocolate maker (with Abuelita hot chocolate!). Two televisions show movies – not sure if it’s the whole trip or just part of it. Either way, I caught most of How to Train Your Dragon (in Spanish) and I believe Jurassic Park II was just starting up when I left the room.
Outside of the VIP Salon are individual bunks (imagine a bunk in a small compartment – with stacks of individual compartments, each with a bed, in a row 2 high – that’s what I’m talking about). Apparently, if you’re in the VIP Salon, you can rent one of them. That’s good info to know if it’s on the Mazatlan ferry. There were also a stack of locking lockers (like small gym lockers).
It seems the AC gets colder the longer the trips take, so I’m spending some time on-deck with my miniature binocs looking for pelagic sightings. We passed by where I did my open water dives for the PADI SCUBA certification (something I’ve wanted to do since I was 16).
The top deck has a number of fixed tables, both high and low, with fixed stools and umbrellas, along with a bar. Alas, the only non-alcoholic beer they had was Heineken – not my fav. So, water it is. Why NA beer? Because the rule in our house is that no alcohol if getting on a motorcycle. Other rules: All the Gear, All the Time (ATGATT), and don’t exceed the speed limit (hard to do that on my Himi and in some of the places I ride anyhow, so not a big deal).
Right now, the ship is rolling, but thanks to scopolamine, I’m not getting seasick. One interested fact is that this will be the first time since 1967 that I’ll be out of sight of land on a vessel . I had many a time I’ve been out of sight of land in an aircraft, but seeing as I usually get seasick in the bathtub, this is the first time on water since I crossed the Atlantic Ocean on the SS United States in 1967 (seasick from the Strait of Gibraltar to New York Harbor – no bueno). Yeah, I’m old 😊
